Years bouldering in PA?
Top five PA bouldering areas?
- Green lane (access restricted)
- Governor Stables
Top five PA boulder problems?
- Silverback in the mist
- Where the sidewalk ends
- The Hornswoggler
- Fox Roof
Top five PA boulder problem names, yours or not, and why?
- Fuck Char – this is one that I climbed alone, didn’t bother naming, and neglected to even tell anyone about. I’m flattered, guys, really – regardless of how it’s read haha.
- Chark attack – No explanation needed!
- House of cards – It just fits so well. The holds are paper thin, and one of them even flexes. It has some of the thinnest and most precarious face climbing I’ve ever done on it, and the crux is way up at the top. You could just rip off the wall unexpectedly for a number of different reasons on this one.
- The Kind That Go Ding – one of Haycock’s first highballs. My buddy came up with the name right away – “you’ve got brass balls, man – the kind that go ding!”
- The Hornswoggler – It’s simply one of the funniest words in the English language. It’s very easy to get hornswoggled by this tricky roof problem.
Favorite PA stone type? Why?
Diabase – it’s special because it’s unique to our region. There’s just one belt of it that runs from central New Jersey through Pennsylvania. It’s what I grew up climbing on.
Favorite month to boulder in PA?
December – this is the month with the best potential for crisp, dry conditions. If we’re lucky enough the snow will hold off until January. Hard to beat a dry 40 degree day for hard bouldering.
Why do you enjoy PA bouldering? What sets PA bouldering apart from some other areas?
PA bouldering is home. I like knowing it well and being able to find my way through the woods. I like developing areas and sharing them with friends. We certainly don’t have the best climbing, but it is really good and I’m glad to have nice local spots.
Willing to share one memorable bouldering experience that embodies “community”?
It’s not a singular experience (thankfully), but our annual Governor Stable comp and fundraiser is a great example of what the community can achieve together. The land is privately owned and leased annually. It would close permanently without the funding that is gathered at the comp. It’s one of our best bouldering areas and access is literally in jeopardy every year. Huge shoutout to Ryan Shipp for pulling the event together every year. It’s a thankless job and he deserves a lot more credit than he gets.